ANNELIE SCHUBERT: THE NEXT GENERATION OF YOUNG DESIGNERS
Annelie Schubert is one of Germany’s top young designers. The designer won the Premiére Vision Grand Prize at the 30th edition of the Hyéres International Festival of Fashion Photography and was applauded by the former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris, Carine Roitfeld.
It all started after graduating in Fashion Design at Hamburg University of Applied Sciences, then she moved to Antwerp to intern with the designer Haider Ackermann and finished her master’s degree at Berlin Weissensse School of Art.
After that, she presented her collection “Aprons” in Berlin, under the wing of the Mercedes-Benz Designer Exchange Program, which was a tremendous success. The Mercedes-Benz Designer Exchange Program is part of the Mercedes-Benz Global Fashion Engagement and offers support to talented young fashion designers around the globe. Annelie was invited by Mercedes-Benz and Elle to show at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin in July 2015.
Right now, she is getting ready for the next step and we wanted to know more about her journey.
Hello Annelie, we should start with your amazing collection. How did the inspiration from “Aprons” came from?
I wanted to get back to what the essence of an apron is, which is the covered front and an open back, and then use this openness of the silhouette, and experiment with different materials and colour combinations.
We can see that in your “Aprons” collection you work with different fabrics, different shapes and cuts. That must have implied a lot of work of exploration of materials, pattern making and draping. Can you tell us a bit about that process?
I usually do intensive colour and material research. I work on silhouettes by using different draping techniques or molding materials, in order to find new and interesting proportions. A selection of my documented drapings is then further elaborated on the basis of drawings. Or the other way around. I am always interested in the vague atmosphere that emanates from a textile material or a combination of colours and silhouette.
You did your bachelor in Fashion Design in Hamburg, a town in Germany where fashion plays a small role, do you think that influenced or motivated you to be better and work hard to get noticed?
No not really, maybe the advantage of studying in a town, where fashion is not as important as in others, such as Paris for example is, that you stay flexible in terms of moving away.
What were the greatest lessons you learned from working with Haider Ackermann?
Probably to be more confident.
Right now, you’re remembered for this kind of style in your collections, once you’ve had success in a certain style is it difficult to continue to evolve?
For me this collection was the first real collection I have made so far. So I hope there will be a lot of evolving. I am not afraid of conforming or not conforming to a certain style or image. I believe, that if I am as honest as I can be in terms of what I like and what is important to me, a correlation to earlier styles will be visible.
Are you more intuitive or more analytical when it comes to designing?
Both. At first I try to listen to my intuition, which I think, is very important. However the analytical part is also important only more for myself. It helps me not to get lost and to verify whether something makes sense or not.
Which stage in the creation of a collection, do you enjoy the most?
I enjoy the tiny moments, when you find something, like a tiny key, and the energy comes and one thing leads to another. That can happen in all development stages.
“Aprons” Collection Photography Jan Reiser